Sunday, November 2, 2014

Last day in the Highlands

For our last full day up here we decided that we were going to visit Togue and then drive down to Lairg on a search for a kilt for me. I don't know why but for some reason I had his thought that there would be a place in Bettyhill to get a Mackay tartan kilt given that Bettyhill is like Mackay capital, but no the nearest person was in Lairg (according to my hotel owner). But we thought we'd make a day of it and stop at the Weaver's cafe in Tongue before heading down the A836 to Lairg. We get there though and the cafe and shop are closed for the season until March due to renovations. This wasn't mentioned on their website. Lesson I am fast learning here is to call places before driving out there trusting what's on their website. But we were sure to enjoy the drive south from Tongue to Lairg. We stopped at Loch Loyal where there were ruins from an ancient croft and took some photos. It was an absolutely gorgeous drive filled with sunshine and no rain! 




Saturday, November 1, 2014

Nights in the highlands

So this is just a quick post about nightlife up here in Bettyhill. There is none. Aside from the pub at the Bettyhill Hotel. It's just a small pub where you can have some pub dinner and some great beer (the Strongbow is my personal favorite. It's very sweet) while playing pool or a game of darts. Of course there's also the staff and the locals that come to the pub. They definitely add flavor to your night, and if you find yourself playing pool with Chris (the cute young guy that works at the hotel) you better make sure that you get a ball in before he gets all seven of his in or he will enforce the pub 7 rule. Let's just say it involves running around without your pants or underwear on. ;)


A walk along the beach

When we got back from our jaunt to Thurso we needed a little time apart. So Tim took a nap while I decided to drive down to the museum to hunt for the Farr Stone, an ancient Pictish stone that's said to have just appeared one night in the 8th century. We had looked for it the day before but it turned out we walked right past it and didn't even notice it amongst the other grave markers and head stones it stood next to. It's amazing how well the carvings have survived the years and it's a beautiful stone. The mystery behind who put it there still stands after so many hundreds of years. Magic I say. After I found the Farr Stone I decided to walk down to Farr beach while the weather was nice. It was an absolutely beautiful afternoon and the tide was all the way out. It was so very magical and strangely the water wasn't salty!! It tasted and smelled fresh! I still am unsure as to why the water coming from the ocean was fresh and not salty but I suppose that just adds to the magic of this place. I could honestly never leave here. Everyone here has chickens and sheep and they just seem to love living in this gorgeous little village. Maybe one day. But Tim says I have to ship over an automatic car haha. 






Road to Thruso

The view out our window this morning was just as beautiful as it was when we arrived. It was a gorgeous view to wake up to. After a full Scottish breakfast we decided to explore the coastline and drive out to Thruso. Now you might be wondering what the difference between a full English Breakfast and a Full Scottish breakfast is. The English has baked beans with it whereas the Scottish has black pudding. I like the black pudding better personally but Tim says it tastes weird and doesn't like it. The drive to Thurso was gorgeous and once you get out of Bettyhill the road widens back up to two lanes for the majority of the drive. Along the drive we also happened upon one markers that mark the borders of Mackay Country. Once you get to Thurso you will first notice the dark and gothic style of the buildings. There is something absolutely stunning about them though with the backdrop of the Scottish highlands. Unfortunately we were there too late in the season to tour Castle Mey and its gardens but it's a must see during the soring and summer months. Instead we just enjoyed a local coffee shop where Tim got the largest hot chocolate I have ever seen, and walking through the small stores before starting our trip back to Bettyhill. 






An afternoon of history

After "checking in" we decided to use the afternoon to go explore the town. Now let me tell you that in comparison to a city like London there isn't much in Bettyhill. That being said if you are here it's for one of three reasons. One you are trying to get away from the world and want to relax and take in the beauty. Two, you are just passing through and are only spending he night. And finally three; you are here for your heritage like I am (though to be honest I wanted to come for the first reason as well). My family name is Macaw which is derived from Mackay. Mackay is the name of the Scottish Clan that once controlled the majority of the highlands from Lairg past tongue all the way to the border of Thurso (roundabout areas with cities to give you a reference). However all that marks this once powerful clans territory are stone pillars that state "Mackay Country". The majority of the people that lived in small croft towns were removed as part of the Highland Clearances back in the 1800s, and it wasn't until the 1920s that families were allowed to purchase fractions of the land that was once theirs and return. Now to spare you a kind drawn out history lesson I will just say that if your family has roots in the Mackay clan, then a trip to the Bettyhill museum is a must as it has probably the most complete history of our clan. We took the afternoon to explore the museum and the graveyard around it. It honestly felt as if I was returning to a long lost home as we walked through the museum and then through the graveyard where headstones completely worn away or covered in moss mark where my distant ancestors lay. 




Hotel and restaurant for two.

The owner of the little hotel we are staying in told us when we checked in that we were the only guests aside from one other couple that he referred to as "the ghosts" because he never sees them and they were checking out the next morning. That being said we essentially had the hotel and restaurant to ourselves. So the hospitality I mentioned earlier continues here at dinner with a beautifully set table looking out onto the ocean and the owner of the whole establishment waiting on us hand and foot. For dinner I chose the Game stew and for dessert I chose the sticky toffee pudding. I have to say that both dishes are equally to die for. They are both rich and heavy meals that will keep you warm and full on a cold night here in the highlands. 





Oh and even the carpets are tartan! 



Home away from home.

After our long drive from Inverness we finally made it to the area where my family on my fathers side came from many generations ago; Bettyhill Scotland. It is literally the most beautiful and magical place I have ever been in my life. I don't know if it's that my ancestors are from here but just being here fills me with this warm and fuzzy feeling inside. Also be prepared for the most hospital people anywhere. When we "checked into" the Bettyhill Hotel we were given the grand tour, ask what time we wanted dinner and breakfast and then showed to our room. Which I'd like to add we were upgraded to from a smaller room with no bathroom entirely free of charge. No money exchanged hands, no credit cards swiped, no checks written. Instead we were treated as if we were family. My recommendation already is that if you find yourself this far up the highlands make a point of staying here at the Bettyhill Hotel. 

And here is the gorgeous view out our room windows. Just breathtaking.